Images and text courtesy of Schiffer Books
Approximately 4 years ago in 2020, I began developing a concept for a special book about modern dress watches for Schiffer Publishing. This is the 7th book I have produced for them so they were receptive to hearing more about my idea. Generally, I prefer huge oversized industrial watches with diameters over 50mm. I feel these styles of timepieces make a very bold statement and present a larger canvas for Avant Garde watchmakers to work with. Theoretically, this works fine with casual attire but has serious drawbacks with formal wear. I discovered this first-hand when attending gala balls and sporting a dinner suit. Ultimately, all my watches were protruding through my cuffs and looked a bit unsightly. After several discussions with serious collectors, it was apparent they were encountering the same issues. Therefore, I pondered what type of timepieces would be ideal for black-tie events.
Originally ‘Modern Dress Watches’ was the working title for my 9th book (7th with Schiffer) but that was subsequently changed to ‘Timeless Classics’. Before writing this book my knowledge of dress watches was very limited. Essentially traditional style timepieces with plain 3 hand dials and modest case sizes had never appealed to me. In general, they were very conservative and devoid of panache. As I immersed myself into this project I discovered a myriad of exciting designs from the crème de la crème of watchmakers. As well as precious metals like gold and platinum brands were now experimenting with more radical materials. For example, titanium, sapphire crystal, carbon and even bronze have filtered into the market.
With ‘Timeless Classics’ I have tried my best to give a comprehensive overview of notable modern dress watches available on the market. As well as featuring corporate brands (LVMH, Richemont, Swatch) I have also acknowledged elegant offerings from smaller lesser known independents. However, the common theme is exceptional artistry, craftsmanship and mechanical genius. Every selection in this book displays enormous design merit and is worthy of being included in this edition. Here are five of my highlights (with actual exerts from the book) that illustrate this point perfectly.
DC7 D.Candaux & Saturno
The DC7 Genesis is one of David Candaux recent exclusive models that is made to order. With a case measuring 44mm, the timepiece exudes generous proportions but still is suitable to wear with formal attire. Probably the most interesting variant is a collaboration with renowned artist Mikki Saturno for ‘Only Watch’. This is a biennial charity auction of luxury timepieces made by the finest watchmakers for research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. What makes this unique 1/1 piece so extraordinary is the hand-painted dial that is inspired by Leonardo da Vinci’s Vitruvian Man. Other features include are refined skeletonised hour/minute hands and biplanar flying 30° tourbillon indication located at 12 o’clock. Beneath the contemporary façade lies a sophisticated hand-winding movement.
Fabergé Compliquée Peacock Arte
Impressively the Compliquée Peacock Arte won Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (High-Mechanical award) in 2015. This latest addition is a collaboration with a specialist in miniaturist artistic André Martinez. The watch is very small by present standards and has a demure rose gold case measuring only 38mm. These proportions should appeal to a broad demographic including the unisex market. What makes this timepiece so stylish is the sensational hand-painted dial depicting a peahen alongside the iconic peacock. Other refined features include white mother-of-pearl rotating hour ring and minute track. Beneath the extravagant façade lies a Swiss-made mechanical movement. The Calibre 6901 comprises 38-jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour.
GENUS GNS Dragon
The GNS Dragon is one of the most exclusive timepieces that GENUS has produced to date. If you are searching for a dress watch with a modern twist this model is the ideal choice. Dimensionally the timepiece has a well-proportioned luxurious 18 Karat white gold measuring 43mm x 18.8mm. What makes this watch so desirable is the exquisite skeletonized dial. Hours are displayed on 12 satellite indices (peripheral and axial rotation) and minutes transitioning between two counter-rotating discs. There is also a wonderful 18 Karat rose gold, stylized dragon, which is meticulously hand-engraved. Powering the watch is manual winding mechanical movement manufactured at the brand’s Geneva workshop. The Calibre 160W-1.2 comprises 26-jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 18,000 VPH.
Patek Philippe 5303R Minute Repeater Tourbillon
5303R Minute Repeater Tourbillon is a sensational dress watch that will appeal to serious collectors. Patek Philippe state this new grand complication was created explicitly for connoisseurs of striking watches. This timepiece is presented in an extravagant 18-karat 42mm rose-gold case that features white-gold intarsias engraved with foliage motifs. What makes the watch so desirable is the majestic transparent skeletonized dial with small second counter. Other fine details include black open worked hour/minute hands and printed numerals. At the heart of the watch is a sophisticated mechanical hand-winding tourbillon movement. The Calibre R TO 27 PS/252 comprises 28-jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour.
Voutilainen Starry Night Vine
The Starry Night Vine combines Japanese traditional art with Swiss Haute Horlogerie. The result is an extraordinary dress watch with an absolutely beautiful appearance. For this unique 1/1 watch, Kari Voutilainen has teamed up with legendary Japanese lacquer maker Mr Kitamura and Mrs Anita Porchet. What makes this timepiece so special is the exquisite dial with an illustration of the sky above a vineyard. The miniature artwork involved meticulous techniques of fine lacquering that took hundreds of hours to execute. This entire splendour is housed in a luxurious 18 Karat Palladium 39mm gold case. Powering the watch is refined in house mechanical hand-winding movement. The calibre comprises 30-jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour.
